This morning I didn’t want to wake up. I willed myself out of bed knowing that the next time I could surf would be in a week. That is too long.

It was easy getting things together. Clothes for work, toiletries, some food. I have put together a pretty good system.

I got to the beach at 7:15 AM. The surf looked small and the tide far out. Only three surfers on the inside goofing around. Maybe there was no surf today. But I was there and needed to get wet.

One old guy on a long board was preparing to paddle out. I decided to go without a surf leash so took it off and hid it behind a big rock on the beach.

The waves were small but clean and the water was still on the chilly side. But the more I paddled out, the warmer the water grew. I few sets rolled in indicating surfable waves.

One thing I always prided myself on when a young guy was being able to paddle out without getting my hair wet. I almost accomplished this little feat today.

Just a few surfers, clean waves, and a glorious sunny morning. One of God’s gifts. A dolphin poked his head out of the water.

I caught a few waves and as it got closer to my “last wave” time a nice set came through. A couple of strokes and up on the wave. It rolled and I went with it cutting back then straightening out making sure to keep ahead of the energy of the wave. The wave reformed and I put a little weight on the nose and continued. Finally the wave turned to whitewater and I rode it till it could push me no more. I reached down and lay back on the board and let the white water take me in on my belly. I didn’t stop till my fins hit the sandy bottom.

A simple wave, a bright clear morning.